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[Metalman]

Hello all, my old dell, XP based, is dying. I need recommendations on the best OS (pros/cons) for use with MC. I am guessing windows 7, but i am not sure about home/professional versions, and whether to have 32 or 64 bit. Also, if anyone has a recommendation on a particular processor/PC brand/stock audio cards that are either great, or ones to stay away from for using MC, it would help me narrow down the HUGE variety of desktops now available to choose from.  Thanks!!

[glynor]

Windows 7 x64

That's what JRiver uses to develop it.  Plus, if you buy it now, you get the upgrade to Windows 8 included for free.

If you're buying new, I'd look for an Intel Core i5 or i7 Ivy Bridge (i5/i7 3xxx series) CPU.
I have no opinion on audio cards, as I'd just use HDMI out if I wanted high-quality audio.

You didn't ask about Video Cards, but GPU matters a lot too.  If you want high-quality video output, you may want to consider a discreet graphics card, rather than use the one built into your CPU.  The Ivy Bridge CPUs have much better on-board graphics than older CPUs, but they're still weak compared to all-but the weakest/cheapest discreet GPUs.  Something like the AMD Radeon 7770 or the Nvidia GTX 550 TI would be good choices, especially if you don't do a lot of gaming.

If you're going for the GPU integrated in the Intel CPU, then I'd look for one that has Intel HD 4000 GPU, rather than the lower-end versions.  This probably means a i5-3570k or better CPU.

[Sparks67]

Hello all, my old dell, XP based, is dying. I need recommendations on the best OS (pros/cons) for use with MC. I am guessing windows 7, but i am not sure about home/professional versions, and whether to have 32 or 64 bit. Also, if anyone has a recommendation on a particular processor/PC brand/stock audio cards that are either great, or ones to stay away from for using MC, it would help me narrow down the HUGE variety of desktops now available to choose from.  Thanks!!

Are you building a new PC or buying one?  As far Windows 7 Home or Professional is fine (if you buy the retail copy, it comes with both 32bit and 64bit).    Retail copy allows you to switch motherboards, if you decide to do that in the future.  OEM just that motherboard only.   

Here is a post that I did on another thread.   This is based on Silent HTPC, but it should answer your questions. 

1) So do you plan to build a fanless Silent HTPC? 
2) Do you plan to put this HTPC in your stereo cabinet or near the TV?
If you are building an HTPC, then you want it is as silent as possible.  Hard drives are noisy, but if you chose thunderbolt motherboard then you can put the hard drives away from the HTPC.

Here is some specs of a company that makes them now.  You can just use their specs and build your own for less cost. 
http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std/sku=hfx_classic_fanless_pc.html  (You can buy from that company, if you don't want to build the pc)
Asus Thunderbolt Pro   (2 PCI Slots for audio cards)
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP5-TH (Intel certified for Dual thunderbolt ports.  Allows up to 12 thunderbolt devices to be attached to those ports)
Gigabyte only has (1 PCI slot for audio card)

The case endless is only available from them in the USA.  The hfx case is from Austria.   http://www.hfx.at/
All their cooling has to be bought at endpcnoise.com, because they are the only distributor in the USA for Hfx. 
If you plan on a passive power supply then you need to change the video card. 
1)   Your video card requires 400 watts, so you have to change that. 
    a) Passive Power supply from Silverstone only has 2 different watts available 400 or 500 watts http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/more_info/1106387.html  Kingwin has a silent power supply that is 500 watts at endpcnoise.
    b) Endpcnoise offers some other options for more watts.   http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std/category=Quiet_Power_Supplies.html
2) SSD or Hard drives.  SSD drives only use 3 watts, while hard drives use 30 watts. 
   a) Areca has nice Thunderbolt case, if you need lot of drives.  http://www.areca.com.tw/products/thunderbolt.htm
   b) Sans Digital and Promise also offer similar cases like this for Thunderbolt.
   c) Sumitomo Electric Optical Thunderbolt cables http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/04/17/idUS10018+17-Apr-2012+BW20120417 
       1) Possible suppliers will be Belkin or Amazon in the USA.
3) Cpu Choice depends on your needs.  Here is the one that I bought and it fits your 65 watt requirement. 
   a) Intel Core i7-3770S Ivy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 65W  (Actually, I am using the Intel 4000 for video at the moment, but I will eventualyl get a new video card in the future.)
4)If your receiver has RCA, then you can use this audio card.  Asus Xonar Essence ST
   If you want Multi-channel, then you need to get the Extension card.   Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 H6 Extension Card  (It is not available in the USA)
   So here is a source for that  http://www.langtoninfo.co.uk/showitem.aspx?isbn=4719543051054&loc=GBP   I bought 2 of them, and they came new in the box.   Here is link to that thread.  http://yabb.jriver.com/interact/index.php?topic=73462.0
Here is the drivers for that sound card.  http://brainbit.wordpress.com/category/uni-xonar/

J river Media Center 18 is going to Mac OS X, but if you plan to do that.  Then you might want to follow this guide on your hardware. 
http://tonymacx86.blogspot.com/search/label/CustoMac   Currently only USB audio is working on Mountain Lion, but I know they done firewire devices in the past.  That is if you are interested in going to Mac OS X.   You can have both Windows and Mac OS X. 
 
P.S. There is several options regarding the HTPC cases.  I have used Lian Li HTPC cases in the past, but I do like the Hfx case.   There is several options on the
market.   The intel hd4000 cpu works great for now, but I will be upgrading to 4k video.  So, I will be going to a new video card.  So, your choice of the HTPC case needs to accommodate a full length video card, if you plan for that in the future.  There is other options if you don't want a video card that takes up dual slots like most consumer cards.  The other option is the Professional cards like firepro.  These cards do more Hz for 3d in 4k, and at less watts. 

[Metalman]

WOW!! Great info guys, that's exactly what i was looking for!! I was going to be buying a new PC, however I just found out that my father, who has a slightly newer (also XP) machine than mine just bought a new PC with windows 7 professional and he will be giving me his old computer. He is going to wipe the HDD for me, so could i format this older machine with his copy of windows 7 for better performance? Or is all my peripherals/hardware designed for XP? If not than i will use my copy of XP. This computer i will be getting has more memory, a larger HDD and a bit faster cpu, but that's about it, still the stock soundcard and graphics controllers. Also, can you optimize Windows 7 for better audio performance like you can for XP?  I found a small, but noticeable improvement when i tweeked my XP settings, thanks!

[glynor]

Retail copy allows you to switch motherboards, if you decide to do that in the future.  OEM just that motherboard only.  

That is true about OEM licenses according the the Windows 7 license.  Technically, you can replace even the motherboard if needed, though you'll have to call to activate it.  The license does allow you to replace the motherboard, in the event of failure, with an identical make/model motherboard, or a "comparable replacement from the vendor".

Generally, buying an upgrade license is a much better deal.

Do you have a Windows XP or Windows Vista license somewhere that you aren't using (an old PC)?

Buy an upgrade license.  The previous version of Windows DOES NOT have to be installed to use an upgrade disc on Windows 7, it just takes a little elbow grease to do a clean install.  There are two methods that I've used extensively to do this:

1. Double Install Method: Install it twice.  The installer will let you install Windows 7 just fine with any disc.  The problem will be when you enter in the license key.  Don't enter it in the first time at all (it'll let you run with no key at all for 30 days).  Then, immediately after, "upgrade" your new, fresh Windows 7 install to itself, and enter your key in this time.  This is the officially supported and recommended method for clean-installing an upgrade edition of Windows.

2. Registry Hack Method: Follow Paul Thurrott's #2 method.

I've used both extensively and they work perfectly.  As long as you really owned a previous version of Windows for each copy of Windows 7 that you are actually going to run, this is totally legit, and it works fine.

If you are bringing a totally new, separate copy of Windows online, then you should buy the full retail licensed copy.  If you're replacing an older XP box or something, though, even with totally new hardware, you can go with the cheaper upgrade license if you're willing to jump through those small hoops when you do the install, you're good to go.  It does not ever ask you to enter the "old license key" during the process.  You don't have to "prove" that you have an old one, but you should, or else you're a dirty-stinking-liar.  That might keep you up at night.

[glynor]

Also, can you optimize Windows 7 for better audio performance like you can for XP?  I found a small, but noticeable improvement when i tweeked my XP settings, thanks!

Windows 7 is better in almost every conceivable way, surprising no-one since Windows XP is 11 years old now.

Audio support, in particular, is one area that was improved in Windows 7 dramatically.  With Windows 7, you almost certainly won't need to hack anything to "tweak" the audio.

Step 1. Install your sound device's drivers.
Step 2. Enable WASAPI Event Style in MC.
Step 3. Enjoy a delicious beer.

[glynor]

could i format this older machine with his copy of windows 7 for better performance? Or is all my peripherals/hardware designed for XP?

You can't use his copy of Windows 7.  First off, you can't use the same "copy" (license) of Windows on more than once PC at a time.  However, more importantly, it probably won't work because most copies of Windows that you get when you buy a PC from big vendors (Dell, HP, Lenovo, etc) are "vendor locked".  In other words, you can't use the HP install disc to install Windows on a Dell.  In fact, often you can't use the HP install disc to install Windows on a different HP.

For your second question... Perhaps.  Windows 7 has lower system requirements than Vista, and most (but certainly not all) relatively modern PCs that can run XP fine can also run Windows 7 fine.

You'd have to check the hardware requirements and make sure your free PC qualifies.  If it "just barely" qualifies, you might not get the best experience in Windows 7 (though I don't know, you wouldn't get the best experience in Windows XP either).

The main issue would be if the Video Card and Sound Device has Windows 7 compatible drivers.  Some video cards (particularly older Nvidia ones) did get "left behind" and don't properly support Windows Vista or newer.  Also, some older discreet sound cards (Creative and whatnot) got left behind and won't work.  You'll need to check that, but if it is a new-ish PC (maybe one that came out just before Vista, or after Vista but they intentionally avoided it) you should be fine, and will do better with a fresh, clean Windows 7 install.

[Metalman]

Well, we WERE going to use his copy, but i agree with it not working on two machines. But i do have my license key from my copy of XP, but how would i "purchase" a key upgrade, would that work in my case? I never heard of that before. Also, his new PC is not from a large vendor, it is a Compusa branded SYX desktop, so we don't know if they "lock" their Windows disk. For example, however, according to Microsoft my "locked' dell copy of XP will install on another machine or Hard Drive if necessary, i just need the key from off the tag off the side of the case. We ran the Windows 7 Upgrade Advisor on my dads PC and it will work, even in 64 bit ( ). And i checked all my own peripherals and they will all work w/windows 7, so i am all set to upgrade his old PC to 7, but that key issue, well i did not think about that Is the key upgrade expensive?

[glynor]

Well, we WERE going to use his copy, but i agree with it not working on two machines. But i do have my license key from my copy of XP, but how would i "purchase" a key upgrade, would that work in my case? I never heard of that before

Like I said above, you don't even need to know the XP key.  It is an honestly thing.  The Windows 7 "Upgrade" process won't ever ask you for the old key.  They do "require" you to have an operating system pre-installed in order to use the Windows 7 upgrade keys (the ones that come with upgrade priced versions of Windows 7).  As I mentioned above, though, there are ways around that (install twice or use Paul Thurrott's registry hack).  However, the installer for Windows 7 is identical regardless if it is a Full or Upgrade edition (the disc is the same).

You can buy upgrade editions of Windows 7 from various places, but here's one for you.

The CompUSA copy of Windows 7 is likely not vendor locked.  You can usually tell that they are if the disc you get is branded (with HP logos and whatnot) and if it comes with other stuff built-in (HP crapware and drivers, for example).  If it looks like a regular Windows 7 disc, it probably is.  And if he isn't using it anymore at all (he bought a new computer that has its own copy), then you could probably get it working.  Technically, it is a EULA violation to "move" any OEM copy of Windows to a different motherboard unless the original PC died, but Microsoft is very unlikely to try to come after you.

But, for $90, you could just get your own copy.  So, it depends how much $90 means to you, and the situation with the other disc.

[Sparks67]

Generally, buying an upgrade license is a much better deal.

I have owned Dells in the past, and in the past (1999) Dell used to package a license disc copy with the Dell.   Dell ships them all their machines with preinstalled on the hard drive and at times gives you a backup disc.  Upgrade disk only works if you have a Windows XP or Vista disc.  

Windows 7 is tied to the motherboard, because I just replaced my motherboard on my new HTPC.  I just plugged in the drive, but Microsoft only gives you 3 days to activate it.   I have the retail copy of Windows 7.   Anyway, Microsoft developed this method to physically link a Windows 7 copy to the motherboard. Here is the reason not to buy the OEM version.  http://www.techpowerup.com/9094/Microsoft-Upgraded-Motherboard-=-New-Windows-Licence.html

This only applies to Microcrap, but Apple allows you to install to multiple machines.  Although, I bought the family version of Snowleopard for only $40, which allows me to install to five computers.  Apple is not easy boot and you have it installed.  I have to see on the new version of Mountain Lion.  

[Metalman]

It looks like you can only install win7 on one machine, there are no new or extra keys, so i am stuck with XP due to financial constraints. At least i get a better processor and more RAM and more storage space !!

[glynor]

The three day activation limit only applies if you've already exceeded the initial 30 day period.  But that is annoying.

However, I should add... If you call to activate, they WILL activate it.  From what I've read, they basically have a policy that if you call and answer the questions "properly" (when they ask you how many computers this copy of Windows is installed on, you have to answer "correctly") then they activate them 100% of the time.

My experience has proved this out.  I have a legit copy of Windows for each machine (real or Virtual) I use.  I bought 2 Family Packs of Windows 7 (all upgrade licenses, as that's all that was offered) back when they were available, and one copy of Windows 7 Pro standalone.  By now, I've installed and reinstalled those licenses probably 40-50 times on different hardware and VMs and whatnot.

I always have to call to activate, as the automatic system never works.  It is annoying whenever I change "enough" hardware that I have to reactivate, especially when it decides to only give me three days.  But calling and talking to the automated thing only takes a few minutes, and it has NEVER failed.  I did have to learn that you need to say "One" in answer to that question, even with a Family Pack, or else it freaks out and hangs up on you.  Eventually, I spoke to a rep by battling my way through the automated voice tree wall, and explained about the Family Pack and that the "real" answer to that is "Three".  He said that it means "this license" not "this copy" (or some such weasel words) and said just to say "One".

If you do that, it works fine.

This only applies to Microcrap, but Apple allows you to install to multiple machines.  Although, I bought the family version of Snowleopard for only $40, which allows me to install to five computers.

Now that they sell it through the Mac App Store, you are allowed to install Mountain Lion (and Lion before it) on as many machines as you own for personal use.  There is no limit, no DRM, no activation, and no special "family pack" pricing.  Just $19.99, install it where you want.

Also, since Lion, it is now very easy to make a bootable USB installation drive with the installer.  You can do it manually if you want, but it is easier to use Diskmaker.

[Sparks67]

It looks like you can only install win7 on one machine, there are no new or extra keys, so i am stuck with XP due to financial constraints. At least i get a better processor and more RAM and more storage space !!

Typically Windows 7 will be available after the new release of Windows 8, but I recommend that you might prefer Windows 7 than new version.  So buy Windows 7, when you have the money. 

[theaterdesign]

I went straight from 32bit XP right to the pre release of windows 8 on my machine months ago and I recommend it. Part of my reasoning is I did not want to budget so much $$ for a copy of Win 7. So got brave, went straight to Win 8 and have never looked back, it is a great OS with an HTPC/ J River. Using pre release is free and I think Microsoft will want $40.00 to license when they officially start selling Win 8. I'm with Glynor, this is HTPC use only and I would be a little bit scared to just throw Win 8 on my main business machine!

It is agreed that a great HQ audio option is HDMI. But also that is use-dependent and also depends on the quality of your audio system in general to make the right choice. If one is oriented more toward video/movie HTPC use, and your audio system is HDMI/Dolby True HD/DTS Master capable then HDMI is a great choice.

I'm a heavily music oriented audio user, with a pretty decent bit-perfect 44.1 CD library and have done TONS of audio quality comparisons/quests with PC audio- soundcards, cables, SPDIF right from the motherboard, HDMI,etc. My $.02 for the music oriented user is asynchonous USB audio using a good USB cable like Wireworld, to an asynchronous-capable DAC that will convert to SPDIF coax and then to the audio system using a great cable for that as well. This will get you some extremely high quality sound. I do video too-streaming Netflix, OTA HDTV, DVD and because of my DAC design, am only pulling stereo audio for the video content. But Dolby PLII x is great when receiving the asynchronous audio as a source and I am willing to accept this compromise on video for the extreme audio fidelity on music this method delivers. BTW, not that big of a compromise anyway, as if you A/B an OTA channel through the HTPC playing Dolby PLII x with a Comcast channel in Dolby Digital, the HTPC sound is better. Probably due to the compression the cable companies use I guess.