I have a Toshiba myself and frankly, have never gotten around to trying each control on and off with a reference movie
I have a Toshiba and don't really notice the soap opera effect on my setup. I think I like the "Clear Frame" and stabilization but in my testing today can't tell much of a difference with it on or off.
I'm not a purist. I have been trying to reduce judder and it has been successful for the most part. Now I am just trying to learn what the best setting are.
If you are using MC20's "Red October HQ" which uses "madVR" then you will want to leave "Resolution +" off, since madVR does the same thing only better.
I am using Red October HQ and have a decent PC and GPU. I use a GTX 760 and my JRiver benchmark is over 5000.
Thank you for the reply and the article.
I am hoping to bother you for a couple more questions.
My confusion comes from this:
My TV can play at 60Hz with the option to convert to 120Hz (it cant receive over 60Hz unlike my laptop which can receive 120Hz)
My GPU can output 23Hz, 24Hz, 59Hz, 60Hz to my TV.
madVR can output 23Hz, 24Hz, 59Hz, 60Hz to my GPU.
MC can output 23Hz, 24Hz, 59Hz, 60Hz to my madVR. (or are changing MC's setting the same as changing madVR's)
When playing a Bluray at 23Hz what is best?
- Sending 23Hz to the TV so it can convert to 120?
- Set madVR to output at 60Hz to the TV and leave the TV at 60Hz?
- Set madVR to output at 60Hz and let the TV convert to 120Hz?
- Set MC to output at 60Hz?
If the TV is adding frames instead of MC/madVR will video clock still be effective?
A basic question is: should my TV or PC add frames?
On my laptop I think it's easier because my screen is 120Hz and the above question doesn't come into play.
I just noticed this is in the wrong section of the forum and should be in TV as in hardware not TV as in TV cards and recording.
