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[dreamin]

I have a new fully baked IdPi on order.  I am interested in adding a HAT for SPDIF output to an external DAC.   (I know I'll need a bigger case) 
Is the ALLO Digione HAT plug and play?  Can someone please walk me through how to configure the IdPi for this setup?       

[astromo]

Here you go:
https://yabb.jriver.com/interact/index.php/topic,107124.msg845850.html#msg845850

I got that from the 3rd response by searching this discussion board for the keyword "digione".

I use a HiFiBerry DAC+, DIGI+ and Pi2Design 502DAC (the latter works off a HiFiBerry dtoverlay from what I researched and then found via use). In the case of HiFiBerry, the IdPi appears to self configure:
https://www.hifiberry.com/blog/what-is-a-raspberry-pi-hat/
Don't know for the digione. The option, Menu 10 - Show Audio Device Information, reveals the attached output.

Hopefully it all works out well for you.

[duncan4791]

I use the Digione with the new Pi4 and IdPi MC 26 without any problems. It will also work with the Pi3b.
Complete instructions to modifying the Config.txt file are at the top of the page referenced in astromo's post. Sadly Allo products do not have the auto install boot rom as most other HAT cards.

You can also reference Allo's Tech document 'Prefered Setup Values' at: https://www.allo.com/sparky/digione.html#downloads.

[Nevalti]

My idPi, based on a Rpi4, is a couple of years old (running MC25.0.114) and I'm awaiting delivery of an Allo DigiOne HAT.

I ordered the DigiOne without realising that there may be 'id' problems to overcome. I now see that I may need to modify the 'Config.txt' file, whatever that is, but..... does it work with MC25 on a Rpi4 or do I need to upgrade to MC26 as well?

Alternatively, when is MC27 for id being released? And will it have built-in support for the DigiOne?

[duncan4791]

While JRiver discourages users from modifing their SDCards but, editing the Config.txt file is the only way to install Audio HAT cards that do not use the boot rom for auto configuration. Raspberry Pi HAT drivers are compiled as part of the Linux kernel and are not part of the Media Center program.
I have described the method for modifying the Config.txt file in other posts, but will list the steps here.

1. Get a USB SDCard reader or a computer with built in reader.
2. Take your IdPi SDcard out of the Pi and make a backup copy of it using an SDCard writer program, like WinDiskImager, to a computer file of your choice.
3. Put the IdPi SDCard or a second copy SDCard into the reader and open the card on whatever type of computer you have.
4. The first partition of the SDCard is a Windows FAT boot directory which contains the boot files and the Linux kernel.
5. In the SDcard's boot directory open the 'overlay' directory which contains all the device tree drivers for the HAT cards. Look for the entry 'allo-digione.dtbo'. This is the driver file. If it is not listed then your IdPi does not support the Digione. You will need a more recent version of Media Center.
6. In the SDCard's boot directory look for the file Config.txt.
7. Open this with a text editor, like Notepad or Notepad++ or whatever editor is native to your computer.
8. Go to the bottom of the document and add the line: 'dtoverlay=allo-digione'.
    a. Further changes to the config file may be made referencing the document: https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/config-txt/README.md.
    b. One change is to disable onboard audio leaving only the Digione as a selection choice, find the lines below and put a # in front of the dtparm to make it a comment line.
       # Enable audio (loads snd_bcm2835)
       dtparam=audio=on
   
9. Save the file (make sure your editor uses the EOL 'End of Line' ASCII character for- Linux LF 'Line feed' instead of CR/LF 'Carriage Return- Line feed' to end each line of text. Windows Notepad or Notepad++ do this correctly).
10. Remove from SDCard reader and insert it into your Pi and boot up.
11. This will probably void any warranty and is not supported by JRiver. So be carefull.

Duncan.

[d_pert]

Hi.

I just installed a Hifiberry Digi+ Pro HAT in my Id Pi 4B.

https://yabb.jriver.com/interact/index.php/topic,126011.0.html

See the bottom post (post made today) where I report the outcome. Very favourable!

[Nevalti]

Many thanks Duncan. I won't get around to it until next week-end but, fingers crossed I don't mess it all up. 

[Nevalti]

Hi.

I just installed a Hifiberry Digi+ Pro HAT in my Id Pi 4B.

https://yabb.jriver.com/interact/index.php/topic,126011.0.html

See the bottom post (post made today) where I report the outcome. Very favourable!

Thanks d_pert,
I read through that thread and understood some of it. I should probably have bought a Hifiberry Digi+ Pro instead. I only bought the DigiOne because I saw it recommended somewhere. Unfortunately I gave no thought to whether it would work easily with JRiver id.

You appear to be more 'techie' than me, so you probably know this but my recollection of setting up my Rpi4 was that there was an option to run the fan at low speed - which is what I opted to do. The fan has been running 24/7 for over a year and I have never heard it, even when up close. You simply need to connect the wire to the correct pin. I don't recall which pin but I will be dismantling it soon to fit the DigiOne HAT and I can find out then if you wish. ?

I am very impressed by the idPi for 2CH audio but it is not faultless - I get a slightly 'glassy' top end when connected by USB to my Benchmark DAC2. I don't get that problem from a Windows laptop nor from other equipment connected via S/PDIF. I want to try a USB-S/PDIF converter to try to overcome that problem. I am guessing that USB on the Rpi is in some way compromised. Next problem to overcome is that it always sounds better at night - probably when something nearby is switched off  ?.

The idPi passes through all my music files to the Benchmark - any bit-rate, any frequency without hesitation. DSD as well. The Benchmark display confirms the format it is playing so I have confidence that nothing is being down-rated.

[duncan4791]

Relax, editing a file to add one line is easy and problem free. You can't make a mistake. If you mistype the line it simply won't work and be ignored.

You can not use a wired fan and a HAT card at the same time, there is nowhere to plug in the fan wires. I suggest you invest in a Pimoroni Fan Shim https://chicagodist.com/collections/raspberry-pi/products/fan-shim-for-raspberry-pi.
There is no way to add a standard 40mm fan, since the spacing between the cpu and HAT is to thin for a fan and it's mount, let alone a heatsink. The fan shim is the only solution I know which works with a HAT.

Also the case that comes with the JRiver preassembled IdPi probably doesn't support a HAT either. You might need to get the ALLO Digione case: https://www.allo.com/sparky/acrylic-case-rpi-digione.html.

If you want to go full DIY, as I did, then using a right angle adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCW4KCM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or a stacking header https://chicagodist.com/collections/raspberry-pi/products/gpio-stacking-header-for-pi-a-b-pi-2-extra-long-2x20-pins will allow both a HAT and a fan, such as https://www.seeedstudio.com/Black-Low-Profile-ICE-Cooling-Fan-For-RPi-p-4678.html. Using lots of 2.5mm standoffs to keep the boards off the table.

If you go for a fan only then for a slow fan looking down at the GPIO connector connect the Red Wire to pin 1 (top left pin) for 3.3volt operation. For high speed (depending on fan type) put the Red wire on pin 4 (1 down on the right side of GPIO). Of course put the Black wire(GND) on pin 6 (third down on the right side of GPIO.

Best, Duncan

[Nevalti]

Many, many thanks to those of you who offered advice or encouragement. My idPi/DigiOne is now up and running and sounding good. This post is intended a review of how the idPi and Allo Digione sound together and a few notes of how I overcame a couple of problems – just in case anyone else is thinking of doing the same.

THE idPi SOUND
My first impression of the idPi was delight at how clean and delicate it sounded, allowing a good insight to the performance. Longer term listening was not quite so favourable revealing the idPi’s top end to be unnaturally ‘brittle’ and ultimately fatiguing. It is better than many well-known streamers but not entirely satisfying (is anything?). The other shortcoming of the idPi is that it fails to portray the full majesty of a large orchestra. Both of these issues are inevitably dependent upon the rest of the hifi system so some people may not have any problems. I use a Benchmark DAC2 which doesn’t usually sound anything but neutral, Nord NC500 mono-blocks which are similarly neutral and PMC OB1i speakers which, although slightly coloured, are very good at portraying a full orchestra as well as fine detail.

I researched a bit and found that some people criticise the USB audio performance of the Rpi. I also learned that you can buy plug-in ‘HATS’ which provide a SPDIF output for the Rpi thereby avoiding the potential Rpi USB audio issue. I bought the first one I found which happened to be an ‘Allo DigiOne’.  I am now feeding its SPDIF ‘digits’ into exactly the same hifi system and the difference is surprising. It is far more noticeable than I expected. Even people who argue that ‘digits are digits and they all sound the same’ could not fail to notice the difference.

THE DigiOne SOUND
The ‘brittle’ top end of the idPi has been banished and replaced by a noticeably warmer presentation - which isn't necessarily a good thing. I was not immediately delighted at the apparent reduction in top-end but as I listened to my usual test-tracks to assess it, I noticed I was tapping my foot more and I wanted to keep listening to each track rather than skip from one to the other to ‘test’ it. In a word it is far more ‘musical’. It made me want to listen more and more to enjoy the music. Even my wife noticed – and that’s really saying something! We sat and listened for a few hours with no thought of turning on the TV.

I have no idea why it is more rhythmical but it certainly is. I would have thought that the Benchmark DAC2 would have controlled that – but apparently not. Now that I am used to it, the frequency balance also sounds more as it should and ‘listener fatigue’ has been banished. The top-end detail IS there, it is just not as ‘in-your-face’.

Imaging has improved, allowing the orchestra to be spread out in front of me in a very satisfying manner.  Depth information (2D) is very clear and it sounds almost 3D with some tracks.

I listen mainly to classical and jazz but I tried some old pop as well and was delighted to find that well reviewed tracks that had not impressed me personally in the past - suddenly made sense. I now have a lot of listening to do.

A very slight downside is that ultimate top-end detail is a fraction quieter. Female voices are very, very slightly muted compared with the unassisted idPi. They are still very nicely textured and expressive, just slightly ‘tamed’. Now I am used to that I don’t notice it and I certainly no longer feel that anything is missing.

The overall improvement with the DigiOne is significant and highly recommended. I would not dream of reverting to the idPi’s USB feed. 
 
THE PROBLEMS
Elsewhere in this thread are links to explanations of how you need to alter the ‘Config txt’ file so I won’t repeat them. It is surprisingly easy and not VERY scary but you will probably lose any warranty from JRiver. Just make sure you save an ‘image’ of the card before you start so that you can put right any problems you may cause yourself. I used Win32DiskImager which is simple enough but a bit slow.

I also printed off the ‘Config  txt’ file both before and after I altered it so I have a record of  exactly what I had done.

I am using a Rpi 4B which is known to run a bit hot so I took the opportunity to disable the, now redundant, audio processing by the Rpi.  My logic is that it will run cooler without that processing going on. (See duncan4791's post for how to do it. It is very simple - thank you Duncan).

I had a PiFan inside my original case but there is no room for it inside the DigiOne case with the DigiOne in place. I therefore mounted the fan on top of the case sucking air OUT. It now sucks in air at the far end of the case and draws it over the processor(s). It is obviously not as effective as mounting it ON the processor but it doesn’t seem to be running very hot now. The air being sucked out by the fan is noticeably warm – so it is obviously doing some good. Disabling the audio may have  been a good thing to have done. There is a firmware update for the Rpi 4 which makes it run cooler but I don’t know if that is included in the idPi.

The DigiOne case has a grid of small holes all over the top, the hole-spacing is just right for the PiFan so all you have to do is drill one big hole for the air to pass through. I used a cheap Forstner drill, which cut into the plastic without any problem. However you choose to cut the hole, do make sure you mount the plastic lid on a piece of scrap wood first or you are quite likely to break it.

Instead of 5v, I picked up 3.3v from the appropriate pins so that I get VIRTUALLY no fan noise. I can just about hear it with my ear a foot away. There is no need to use any extensions to the lines of pins, I simply tinned the ends of some thin black & red wires and made TINY loops to slip down over the pins and be sandwiched between the male & female strips. You obviously need to use thin wire but that’s fine, the current is minimal. Once I had squashed my loops flat, they only measured 0.2mm thick – which is insignificant when it comes to putting the lid on the case. If you prefer, you could solder your wires underneath the Rpi’s PC board.

The PiFan has female connectors which would normally be pushed onto the appropriate pins. All I did was tin MY wires and push them into the standard PiFan connectors. You just need to get the solder thickness right and then shrink-wrap the end to maintain insulation.

If I was doing it again I think I would join the wires at a DPDT switch which would allow me to turn the fan on and off AND allow me to reverse the direction of the air flow. I may yet do that if I can find a suitably small switch.

OTHER POINTS
Operation of MC is unaffected.

To my ears it is significant upgrade and I thoroughly recommend giving it a try if you are not entirely happy with the idPi sound. There are other SPDIF HATS available but I have no idea if they all sound good; the DigiOne certainly does in my system.

It took me about three hours to do everything but much of that was thinking-time trying to work out how. Now that I know how to do it, I could probably repeat the whole process in less than an hour.

IF you use a Rpi 3B instead of a Rpi 4B you should not have any over-heating issues and therefore no need for a fan. I think I could do that installation in 15 minutes.

IF your Rpi 4B is mounted in a big enough box, you could attach the DigiOne with a ribbon cable or on a spacer block and keep the fan directly on the processor. You still need to get power to the fan but, in a bigger box, it would be easy to have a separate fan power supply – and that may well be a good thing anyway.

Thanks again for all the help.

[duncan4791]

I'm glad you got everything working to your satisfaction. It turns out you're more the intrepid DIYer than I expected. Up next one of several UPS HATs to keep everything running across power failures. I don't know if the version of IdPi 25.0.10 MC 26.0.107 uses the latest kernel to program the Pi's EEPROM with the new USB controller heat reduction code. Bob at JRiver will be able to tell if  your concerned. The simple way is to make a Pi OS Sdcard and run it for a moment, it will update the EEPROM if needed.

Best wishes, Duncan