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[Manni]

It was established a while ago that this issue was specific to 3xxx GPUs, possibly 4xxx GPUs, and it might be a hardware issue. The reason why I'm creating this new thread is because I have some new information so I'd like to see if anything can be done in LAV or MC to fix it, despite the fact that it might be specific to the hardware.

I'm also trying to make this thread specific so that other similar but unrelated issues are not reported here. If you have a different GPU, no HDMI 2.1 AVR or if you experience this with other sound formats, or when not bitstreaming, or with non-4K HDR content, please DO NOT POST HERE. Find a different thread, or create another one.

If I'm the only one with this issue, then it will be easy for Hendrik to do nothing, and I'll be the first to understand

If you do post in this thread because you experience long freezes or micro dropouts when bitstreaming Atmos through an HDMI 2.1 AVR with a 3xxx GPU, please provide the following info, as I do, so that we can see if there are some common elements causing the issue:

Motherboard: ASRock X570 Creator
CPU: AMD 5950X
Memory: 32GB
GPU: Zotac 3090 (no OC/UC) with 555.99 Studio drivers
HDMI 2.1 AVR: Denon X8500HA
Anything else in the HDMI A/V chain: HD Fury VRROOM, but it's after the AVR (so not in the audio chain) and the issue also happens with the VRROOM out of the chain.
OS: Windows 11 23H2 with all updates installed
MC: MC32 build 55 (it happens here with both direct sound and WASAPI, and some buffer settings can improve the issue, but not fix it)
Renderer: JRVR (but it also happens with madVR).

The new information I have is that I have found two workarounds for this issue:

1) Compromise immersive audio quality and not use bitstream. That's an obvious one, and not new. If you set MC to not use HDMI bitstreaming, LPCM has zero audio drops with Atmos. Obviously, you lose the metadata for immersive sound (Atmos or DTS:X), so this is only a workaround if you don't have any height speakers in your setup or don't mind losing the native immersive audio and are happy to simply upscale the base DTS:HD or Dolby TrueHD layer using Neural:X or Dolby Surround.

2) Select 8bits in the nVidia control panel, instead of 10/12bits. That's less obvious, and the new bit of info. If you set the driver to 8bit, MC has to dither so you get a bit more noise near black with 10-bit content. You compromise the picture quality slightly, but you can bitstream Atmos and have zero dropped frames. At least with the native refresh rate. If I use 119p for 23p, I got one micro audio drop in a 153 minute films, which is still a lot better than in 10/12bits. [EDIT got Atmos freeze/drop at 4K119 with 23p content today, so native frame rate seems like the only workaround. I’ll keep testing that way.]

So if you experience this issue with long pic freezes/audio dropout or micro audio dropouts when bitstreaming Atmos, please could you 1) post your detailed set up as I did above and 2) post if these two workarounds work for you? Note that if these workarounds don't help, you migght have another issue in your system (network stability, HDMI cable, etc) so you might want to isolate that first, for example playing the test film from an SSD or replacing your cables with HDMi 2.1 Premium certified cables to ensure that your issue isn't network or cable related. Atmos needs a bit more bandwidth, so it might be enough to trigger a dropout in some cases.

Please note that you often have to wait at least 30 minute, frequently up to 60 minutes, and quite often up to 90 minutes or more before experiencing any of these dropouts, so please test when watching a film at least 120min long. You have to watch it because although the long freezes/dropouts will show a few hundreds dropped frames in the OSD stats, the micro audio drops won't show any dropped frames. You can't just watch 20 minutes once and report "no Atmos dropout issue".

If you don't have any audio dropout issue when bitstreaming Atmos through an HDMI 2.1 AVR using a 3xxx GPU (or a 4xxx GPU), please could you kindly 1) check before posting by playing a couple of full two+ hours films in full that you actually don't have the issue and 2) provide as much information as possible about your hardware and your software setup?

@Hendrik (and other devs), do you have any idea why the dropouts go away in 8bits? Also, I've noticed that increasing the buffering to 150ms instead of 100ms in the audio device settings helps a bit. Unfortunately, setting buffering to any higher value causes a crash / prevents playback from starting. Is there any chance you could fix this buffering issue, so that we could try higher buffering values?

Thank you!

[SamuriHL]

I have this issue but I won't have time to test until maybe this weekend.  I have a similar hardware configuration with an ASUS mainboard and an AMD cpu.  I'll get the full specs of everything later.  The difference for me is while I don't have an HDMI 2.1 AVR, what I DO have is the VRROOM in the chain which is HDMI 2.1.  That is splitting audio out to my AVR through its HDMI out port.  No audio is being sent to my display.  In any case, I'll post more information about my setup and whether the suggestions change anything when I get time later this week.  But you are not alone with the problem.

[Hendrik]

The buffer size is limited by the driver, and the absolute size depends on channel and sample rate used - bitstreaming uses the maximum however, as bitstreaming TrueHD uses 8 channel at 192kHz, so the maximum buffer length is limited accordingly.

[Manni]

The buffer size is limited by the driver, and the absolute size depends on channel and sample rate used - bitstreaming uses the maximum however, as bitstreaming TrueHD uses 8 channel at 192kHz, so the maximum buffer length is limited accordingly.

Thanks for the explanation, makes sense. You might want to add a check so that the user can't select a forbiden/excessive size, as it looks like a bug when MC then crashes during playback.

Any idea why the dropouts go away in 8bits? Is it just a bandwidth issue, as 8-bit does reduce the bandwidth for picture, which might leave more room for audio? Anything that could be done about this to make it work in 10bits? 4K23 10bits is still TDMS, so it's not FRL related. 4K120 8its is FRL5 and it stil works much better (single micro drop in almost 2.5 hours) than in 10bits, which is still FRL5. I was hoping this might give you some idea. Can you reproduce the behavior I'm reporting with your 4xxx?

[Manni]

I have this issue but I won't have time to test until maybe this weekend.  I have a similar hardware configuration with an ASUS mainboard and an AMD cpu.  I'll get the full specs of everything later.  The difference for me is while I don't have an HDMI 2.1 AVR, what I DO have is the VRROOM in the chain which is HDMI 2.1.  That is splitting audio out to my AVR through its HDMI out port.  No audio is being sent to my display.  In any case, I'll post more information about my setup and whether the suggestions change anything when I get time later this week.  But you are not alone with the problem.

Thanks, looking forward to your feedback

[Manni]

Correction, I did more tests in 4K120 and I’m getting freezes/dropouts too.
At this stage, only 4K 8bits at native frame rate (TDMS) seems to resolve the issue (along with not using bitstreaming of course).
I’ve edited the first post to reflect this.

[SamuriHL]

That's not an option for me.  I do ATMOS and DTS:X so not going to happen as a "solution".  8 bit is also not great.  I will do the testing this weekend to see if it works but it's by no means a solution in my book.

[Hendrik]

The only bitstreaming I do is when playing Netflix, which is playing through a browser, and that also has occasional drop outs. It seems like a fundamental problem, rather then any software issue.

[Manni]

That's not an option for me.  I do ATMOS and DTS:X so not going to happen as a "solution".  8 bit is also not great.  I will do the testing this weekend to see if it works but it's by no means a solution in my book.

I never said either was a solution, they are just ways to limit the issue by compromising either the sound quality or the picture quality.

8bit isn’t great, but there is no visible difference here, I haven’t noticed any additional banding, but I haven’t tested for this specifically. With madVR, using 8bit with HDR content only added a tiny bit of noise near black that was only visible with your nose on the screen. I suspect it will be similar with JRVR if 8-bit is confirmed as a workaround.

We need 10bit on the content side for HDR, not so much on the display side with good dithering. Not ideal, but good enough as a workaround if there are no visible downsides.

I find 8-bit less limiting than losing true immersive audio, so that’s what I’m testing at the moment.

I’ve created this thread to find a better solution, so I’m also hoping for a breakthrough.

[DocCharky]

Or you could save a lot of time and energy (but not money...) and buy a RTX 4xxx.

It solved all Atmos issues for me including this driver one : https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?p=1997341#post1997341

[Manni]

Or you could save a lot of time and energy (but not money...) and buy a RTX 4xxx.

It solved all Atmos issues for me including this driver one : https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?p=1997341#post1997341

Thanks, but the last time I tried a 4060 I still got Atmos dropouts, so I sent it back. That was before Hendrik improved things in LAV though, so I could give it another try. I would try my 1080ti first though. Which exact 4xxx (brand, model) did you get ? A 4070ti super (the first model at least as good as my 3090) would cost me more than $1,000, so not a cheap solution.

Note that I don’t have any of the issues you reported in that post with my 3090, so there is clearly something else that’s wrong in your setup. Please could you also post your detailed info, as I did in the first post, so we can have details of a non-working config with a 3090 and working with a 4xxx? Thanks!

[Manni]

I installed my 1080ti without changing anything (shut down, swapped GPU, restarted with the same drivers etc). I only set the correct settings in JRVR as they had reset to default.
No dropouts with 4K23 12bits. So this shows that it's definitely specific to the 3090.
I might just keep the 1080ti in the HTPC and use the 3090 in my E-GPU with the laptop when I need more GPU power for games or editing.
If someone comes up with an exact 4xxx model that's guaranted to work at 4K119 without dropouts, I might give it a try.

[mumford]

Just the HDMI port or does the DP port has same problem?  Maybe a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter can reduce or solve the problem?

[Manni]

Just the HDMI port or does the DP port has same problem?  Maybe a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter can reduce or solve the problem?

Nope, tried that a while ago and it didn't help.

[Manni]

I've ordered a Zotac Trinity 4080 Super, as that's about the only 4080 that can fit in my HTPC case. I should receive it tomorrow. Let's hope it will be as good as the 1080ti for MC duties, otherwise it's going back. I'll keep the 1080ti in the HTPC and will use the 3090 as an the E-GPU for the laptop for video editing and possibly gaming. Won't be as good as the 3090 in the HTPC, but it should be better than the 1080ti.

[SamuriHL]

I'll be curious to see how that works out for you.  Best Buy has an ASUS TUF 4080 Super in stock near me.  I'm not really looking to drop a grand right now but if it solves these stupid issues then I'd at least consider it.

[DocCharky]

I’ve been using an MSI GeForce RTX 4080 Super 16G Gaming X Trio for 5 months now.

It literally solved all my issues. No Atmos cuts, no non-working weird combinations, no driver issues, everything just works as intended.

Obviously, I’m not using it only for video; I play games on TV with that PC, and now with DLSS 3 and frame generation, which is a game-changer.

The 3090 FE is now in my desktop PC.

[SamuriHL]

Well if it solves all Manni's problems (they're the same as mine) then I'll have to contemplate a trip to best buy.  I'll actually be right next to it tomorrow.  I just don't really want to spend that kind of money.  And that's complete nonsense on nVidia's part that an entire line of cards has a potential hardware problem. 

[Manni]

I’ve been using an MSI GeForce RTX 4080 Super 16G Gaming X Trio for 5 months now.

It literally solved all my issues. No Atmos cuts, no non-working weird combinations, no driver issues, everything just works as intended.

Obviously, I’m not using it only for video; I play games on TV with that PC, and now with DLSS 3 and frame generation, which is a game-changer.

The 3090 FE is now in my desktop PC.

Thanks for confirming your GPU model. Please could you let us know your CPU, OS and driver version? Thanks.

[DocCharky]

i7 13700K, Win 11 and drivers always updated.

[Manni]

i7 13700K, Win 11 and drivers always updated.

Thanks. will update as soon as I receive and get a chance to test the 4080 super.

[Manni]

So, received and installed the Zotac Trinity 4080 Super today.

I did a straight swap again (power off, took the 1080ti out, put the 4080 super in, power on) because I didn't want to change any of the other parameters. This was with the latest 555.99. I only respected the same audio and video settings in MC. Obviously I also set the driver to 10bits.

I selected my longest Atmos movie as a first test, Titanic (3 hours and 14 minutes).

The whole film played without a single dropped frame or Atmos drop, micro or longer freeze.

So it looks like this is definitely a 3xxx specific hardware issue, given that it's solved by both the 1080ti and the 4080 Super.

I don't feel bad about upgrading as the 1080ti turned out to not pass HDR metadata and developed some random sparkling pixels (that neither the 3090 or 4080 have).

The 4080 Super isn't cheap at £959, but at least it's £350 cheaper than the 4080 was a few months ago, and it's the most efficient 4xxx. Almost completely silent, even under load (the 3090 was ok for video playback but sounded like a tornado under heavy load).

The 4080 Super is about 50% faster than my 3090, and it uses a lot less power as it's limited to 320W vs the 350W of the far less efficient 3090.

If this is confirmed in the next few days, I'll definitely keep the 4080 Super and the 3090 will end up in the EGPU for my laptop.

Anyway, not a cheap fix, but I highly recommend it (or another 4xxx) if you can afford to throw money at the problem. Looks like it solved it here.

I'll post some measurements for power use soon, and I'll confirm that all has kept working fine, but so far no issue at all.

By the way, I did my latest test with two Vrrooms in the chain, my usual one between the AVR and the display, and another one between the HTPC and the AVR, to allow me to extract the audio to my Sony HDMI Headphones. Clearly the Vrroom (or I suspect any HD Fury device) isn't related to these issues.

[SamuriHL]

Ah man I was just over at best buy this morning, too.  LOL  I guess I'll have to make a trip cause we really need to be able to use the latest drivers and NOT have these kinds of stupid issues. This sucks.  sigh but at least we know the fix.

[Manni]

Ah man I was just over at best buy this morning, too.  LOL  I guess I'll have to make a trip cause we really need to be able to use the latest drivers and NOT have these kinds of stupid issues. This sucks.  sigh but at least we know the fix.

Yeah, I think from now on I’ll just upgrade my GPU when Hendrik does, and buy the same gen and model he does, it should save a lot of grief

[SamuriHL]

ROFLMAO!  Clearly!  LOL

[DocCharky]

I told you so 

[SamuriHL]

This card is freaking giant!  And it requires 3 power cables instead of the 2 I had on my 3080.  This project is quickly becoming a PITA.  As soon as I get another power cable to it I should be able to boot it up.  That is one big ass card though.  And I'm thinking a power supply upgrade at this point is in order. EDIT: As in right now.  I just ordered a Corsair 850e.  I don't like playing with that kind of power.  Won't that be a fun tomorrow project.  Now to see if I can get this thing running for tonight.

[Manni]

This card is freaking giant!  And it requires 3 power cables instead of the 2 I had on my 3080.  This project is quickly becoming a PITA.  As soon as I get another power cable to it I should be able to boot it up.  That is one big ass card though.  And I'm thinking a power supply upgrade at this point is in order. EDIT: As in right now.  I just ordered a Corsair 850e.  I don't like playing with that kind of power.  Won't that be a fun tomorrow project.  Now to see if I can get this thing running for tonight.

Yeah, I had to get a third cable out for my 1000W modular PSU. Was in the box, so easy enough. You will laugh but the Zotac is the smallest 4080 super available. I wouldn’t have been able to fit any other in my HTPC case. I hope it will work for you as well as it seems to be working for me. Second film watched and still no dropout. Fingers crossed, but it looks like the real deal.

[Manni]

I told you so 

Yes, looks like it’s the (expensive) magic bullet

[SamuriHL]

Yeah, I had to get a third cable out for my 1000W modular PSU. Was in the box, so easy enough. You will laugh but the Zotac is the smallest 4080 super available. I wouldn’t have been able to fit any other in my HTPC case. I hope it will work for you as well as it seems to be working for me. Second film watched and still no dropout. Fingers crossed, but it looks like the real deal.

I can't get it to post.  I have 3 power cables but the video card does not seem to like it at all.  I may have to wait to finish this tomorrow when the new power supply comes and I can use a single 12v cable.  I really hate this nonsense.  I didn't even really want to buy a new card right now given that the 5xxx series will be out in a few months.  But whatever.  If it solves all our problems, it's fine.  I'll eventually get it working.

[Hendrik]

Yeah, I think from now on I’ll just upgrade my GPU when Hendrik does, and buy the same gen and model he does, it should save a lot of grief

My HTPC actually runs a 3070 because I had to upgrade to something with HDMI 2.1 when I got the 4K screen a few years back, and that was it then. Not feeling like replacing that with a 40-series card over an occasional audio dropout thats exclusive to Netflix for me, since I dont otherwise bitstream.
My desktop on the other hand usually gets upgraded when a new gen comes out.

[Manni]

I can't get it to post.  I have 3 power cables but the video card does not seem to like it at all.  I may have to wait to finish this tomorrow when the new power supply comes and I can use a single 12v cable.  I really hate this nonsense.  I didn't even really want to buy a new card right now given that the 5xxx series will be out in a few months.  But whatever.  If it solves all our problems, it's fine.  I'll eventually get it working.

The 3 PCI-E 8-pin to the 12-pin  converter worked fine here, but each one has its own rail and the PSU is 1,000W. You'll need a 750W min PSU to run this.

Well, the 5090 at $$$$$ will be out in 2025, but by the time a 5080 comes out at an affordable time it might be next summer. I really didn't want to wait that long, or invest in a 5090. I had no plans to upgrade either, but if this 4080 Super does the trick, it will same me a lot of time, and time is $...


I'm sure you'll get it to work with the new PSU. Let us know.

[SamuriHL]

I have an eVGA 850 Gold Plus so the PSU isn't the issue.  I have 3 separate VGA cables connected to the PSU and the little adapter.  But motherboard posts 00 code (ASUS 570E Gaming WIFI II with a 5900x cpu).  All was working fine with the 3080 before I took that out.  I'm really not in the mood to pull this ginormous GPU out and reinstall the 3080 to see what's going on at this point.  Mounting that 4080 was a major PITA in my case.  I think I'll just prep it for the new Corsair PSU coming tomorrow by removing the eVGA and all the cabling.  God I hate this crap.  I probably should have just resigned myself to building a whole new HTPC at this point but I don't have the money and I'm so not in the mood for system rebuilding right now.

[Manni]

My HTPC actually runs a 3070 because I had to upgrade to something with HDMI 2.1 when I got the 4K screen a few years back, and that was it then. Not feeling like replacing that with a 40-series card over an occasional audio dropout thats exclusive to Netflix for me, since I dont otherwise bitstream.
My desktop on the other hand usually gets upgraded when a new gen comes out.

Well then we have to get you to bitstream so that you suffer the same pain we do and are motivated to make it stop

I wouldn't have replaced the 3090 either if it wasn't for the dropouts, but these are all the time, it's really not usable like this and the two workarounds (8bits or no bitstream) are really not great.

Anyway, I'm happy with the new GPU: HDR metadata is fine, no Atmos dropouts [EDIT: unfortunately they are back] and much more efficient.

Here are some measurements I've taken over the years, and how the Zotac Trinity 4080 Super compares:

[Manni]

I have an eVGA 850 Gold Plus so the PSU isn't the issue.  I have 3 separate VGA cables connected to the PSU and the little adapter.  But motherboard posts 00 code (ASUS 570E Gaming WIFI II with a 5900x cpu).  All was working fine with the 3080 before I took that out.  I'm really not in the mood to pull this ginormous GPU out and reinstall the 3080 to see what's going on at this point.  Mounting that 4080 was a major PITA in my case.  I think I'll just prep it for the new Corsair PSU coming tomorrow by removing the eVGA and all the cabling.  God I hate this crap.  I probably should have just resigned myself to building a whole new HTPC at this point but I don't have the money and I'm so not in the mood for system rebuilding right now.

Sorry to hear this. The PSU shouldn't be the issue then, not sure the new one will make a difference. Do each of the PCI-E cable has its own rail on the PSU? Did you get the Zotac Trinity or another model? It's about the same size as my 3090, and it's not that much bigger than the 1080ti, so maybe to 3070 was tiny.

Good luck and keep us posted!

[SamuriHL]

Sorry to hear this. The PSU shouldn't be the issue then, not sure the new one will make a difference. Do each of the PCI-E cable has its own rail on the PSU? Did you get the Zotac Trinity or another model? It's about the same size as my 3090, and it's not that much bigger than the 1080ti, so maybe to 3070 was tiny.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Yes, my PSU has 4 rails for VGA and I have 3 of them connected.  I got an ASUS 4080 Super TUF card to replace my Asus 3080 TUF.  It's probably 3" or 4" longer than my 3080.  It fits my case fine (fractal design cases are awesome).  I have absolutely no idea why it won't post. I also don't remember what code 00 is for my motherboard but it's likely power related.  Quite honestly, I'm not impressed with the adapter anyway.  Having a single 12v power cable makes way more sense.  I just want to get the darn thing up and running again so I can test it out.  And of course tomorrow I won't have any time at all to watch anything.  Figures.

[Manni]

Yes, my PSU has 4 rails for VGA and I have 3 of them connected.  I got an ASUS 4080 Super TUF card to replace my Asus 3080 TUF.  It's probably 3" or 4" longer than my 3080.  It fits my case fine (fractal design cases are awesome).  I have absolutely no idea why it won't post. I also don't remember what code 00 is for my motherboard but it's likely power related.  Quite honestly, I'm not impressed with the adapter anyway.  Having a single 12v power cable makes way more sense.  I just want to get the darn thing up and running again so I can test it out.  And of course tomorrow I won't have any time at all to watch anything.  Figures.

Oh yeah the ASUS 4080 TUF is a monster, no way I could fit this in my case (Silverstone Grandia GD-07B, same as the original Envy). Especially the height/length. The Zotac was my only option. With the power cable disconnected, make sure the GPU is seated correctly. It's so heavy that it might be causing an issue. Mine came with an adaptor but as the case is horizontal I didn't need it. You might even want to try another slot if you can.

I really don't think it has anything to do with the PSU or the adaptor if you have three 8-pin cables coming from three separate rails on an 850W PSU. I also have an X570 and a 5950X and I never draw more than 500W from the wall, so you should be fine with the 850W.

[SamuriHL]

Oh yeah the ASUS 4080 TUF is a monster, no way I could fit this in my case (Silverstone Grandia GD-07B, same as the original Envy). Especially the height/length. The Zotac was my only option. With the power cable disconnected, make sure the GPU is seated correctly. It's so heavy that it might be causing an issue. Mine came with an adaptor but as the case is horizontal I didn't need it. You might even want to try another slot if you can.

I really don't think it has anything to do with the PSU or the adaptor if you have three 8-pin cables coming from three separate rails on an 850W PSU. I also have an X570 and a 5950X and I never draw more than 500W from the wall, so you should be fine with the 850W.

Yes it is a monster card.  I have it laying down right now to alleviate weight issues (it has a cute little stick that supposedly will hold the rear end of the thing in place.  That will be problematic in my case if I need it.  I can't use another slot though.  This thing takes up 3 slots.  It really is huge.

I actually think it's the adapter.  I did a little research on the ones that nViidia makes and they absolutely SUCK quality wise.  It looks like people have had issues with the adapter shifting, not seating properly, etc etc.  The Corsair I got is another 850.  I have a 5950x, as well with 2 nvme SSD's and a water block for the CPU.  I'm not drawing a lot of power, either.  I mean the 3080 never had an issue even when cranking in games.  I don't love having 3 VGA power cables running through the case anyway.  Swapping those out for 1 12V power cable will make cable management nice, and I'll be ready for any future upgrades I may want to do. They don't change PSU designs all that often.  I may toss the 3080 back in just to make sure I didn't break anything else while trying to mount that thing. 

[SamuriHL]

Looks like something on the machine has died.  I hope not the CPU but that is possible.  This is why I hate messing with perfectly working machines and why I tend to replace everything all at once when I do.  So yea, now I have no HTPC.  Fantastic.

[Manni]

Looks like something on the machine has died.  I hope not the CPU but that is possible.  This is why I hate messing with perfectly working machines and why I tend to replace everything all at once when I do.  So yea, now I have no HTPC.  Fantastic.

Sorry to hear that. I hope you'll sort it out.

[mumford]

Beware of 3080.  I had a Seasonic 1000W PSU working perfectly for 3 years.  A 3080ti killed it, as it has insane momentary current draw.  It is a known problem of the 3080.  Seasonic RMA the PSU and sent a newer model with the fix of the problem.

[SamuriHL]

The 3080 has been running fine in that machine for a while.  But the machine won't post at all so either I damaged the PSU or something else.  I'll know Monday if it's the PSU.  I switched my order from the Corsair to a new eVGA.  I've had good luck with the eVGA over the years.  But I want one with the new nVidia connector as I'm not jazzed about putting an adapter with 3 power cables attached to it in my machine.  If when I get the new PSU it still doesn't boot, then I'll have to decide what I'm going to do about just building a whole new machine.  With AMD Zen 5 releasing this year, I may just say screw it and not have an HTPC for a few months. Worse case I can always grab my long zeskit HDMI cable and run it to this laptop which has a 4080 in it when I want to use HTPC functionality for a few months.  I'm just not wanting to spend the money right now for a full rebuild (cpu, mobo, and memory)

EDIT:

I threw the 3080 back in the machine I bought it in.  Only way I could acquire a 3xxx card during the pandemic was to buy a whole machine. It's an ASUS machine with some intel i7-11700kf CPU but it at least boots.  There's ZERO chance of fitting that 4080 in that case though.  Might be a temporary solution if I can't get my HTPC working.

[JimH]

I moved this since it's now a purely hardware discussion.  If you want the first part split and moved back, let me know where to split it.

[SamuriHL]

I personally think people need to know about this issue with the 3xxx cards.  If Manni and I weren't sure that it was NOT a JRiver issue, I can promise you that others might come to the conclusion that it's a JRiver problem.  And that would be a shame given that nVidia quality control is at fault.

[SamuriHL]

New power supply did not fix the issue, as expected.  Something else has died.  The manual states that q-code 00 isn't used.  Um, what?  That's ALL it displays. So it's not even trying to post.  My guess is the mobo is dead.  At this point I'll see what happens in July with the AM5 Zen 5 CPU's and motherboards.  I'll just build a new machine and use the 3080 machine until I can make that happen.  I tried re-seating the CPU and that made no difference so it really does seem like the mobo has died.  Which is frustrating given that it was not a cheap mobo when I got it a few years ago.

[Manni]

New power supply did not fix the issue, as expected.  Something else has died.  The manual states that q-code 00 isn't used.  Um, what?  That's ALL it displays. So it's not even trying to post.  My guess is the mobo is dead.  At this point I'll see what happens in July with the AM5 Zen 5 CPU's and motherboards.  I'll just build a new machine and use the 3080 machine until I can make that happen.  I tried re-seating the CPU and that made no difference so it really does seem like the mobo has died.  Which is frustrating given that it was not a cheap mobo when I got it a few years ago.

Sorry to hear that. Did you try using another slot for the GPU? As long as the power cord was disconnected when you first swapped the 3080 and the new 4080 (as powering off isn’t enough to cut off all power to the mono), the most likely thing that could have been damaged is the GPU slot due to excessive pressure when you took out the old / put in the new GPU. Worth trying another GPU slot on the mono with either GPU, probably the 3080 first in case your 4080 is DOA.

[SamuriHL]

As I mentioned before, I can't use another slot.  There's literally no room.  When I say this thing takes 3 slots, I'm not joking.  The only other slot is at the bottom of the case and has literally no room.  So that's not an option.  One thing I can do and I may consider it when I have a few hours is rip out the mobo from the ASUS machine and drop it in another case.  I have an old intel machine kicking around (9900k) that has a water block that should work with the intel board from the ASUS.  Then I should have enough room to mount the 4080 on that board.  But for now I'll probably just install MC32 on the ASUS machine until I can rebuild my main machine. Then I can have the ASUS machine for a bedroom HTPC.

[Manni]

As I mentioned before, I can't use another slot.  There's literally no room.  When I say this thing takes 3 slots, I'm not joking.  The only other slot is at the bottom of the case and has literally no room.  So that's not an option.  One thing I can do and I may consider it when I have a few hours is rip out the mobo from the ASUS machine and drop it in another case.  I have an old intel machine kicking around (9900k) that has a water block that should work with the intel board from the ASUS.  Then I should have enough room to mount the 4080 on that board.  But for now I'll probably just install MC32 on the ASUS machine until I can rebuild my main machine. Then I can have the ASUS machine for a bedroom HTPC.

Well, I have bad news. It took four films but I got my first Atmos freeze so it looks like the 4080 might improve things but doesn’t fully resolve the issue. I need to investigate what’s happening before deciding if I send the 4080 back or keep it.

[SamuriHL]

Well, I have bad news. It took four films but I got my first Atmos freeze so it looks like the 4080 might improve things but doesn’t fully resolve the issue. I need to investigate what’s happening before deciding if I send the 4080 back or keep it.

Well, that's still better than what we've dealt with prior on the 3xxx cards IMO.

[Manni]

Well, that's still better than what we've dealt with prior on the 3xxx cards IMO.

Yeah but not sure it’s worth a grand if it doesn’t fully solve the issue. I’m going to put the 3090 back and see if I can identify what’s causing these issues.