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[syndromeofadown]

I am beginning the installation of a new stereo into my new car.
The purpose of posting it has two purposes:
1) To help others who want to do something similar.
2) To help me. I'm sure I will be asking for advice at some point.

I suspect it will be an ongoing project that will last between 3 days and 6 months.
I typically don't have free time for things like this until winter.

Here is my pile of stereo, some old stuff, some new stuff.






Here is the car i need to cram it into






The current deck is spread throughout the dash and will stay there.
All existing speakers/tweeters will be replaced by JL Audio components.

A Windows tablet will be connected to an Asus 8 channel DAC that will connect to a JL Audio 5 channel amp that will power 4 speakers, 4 tweeters and a 10" sub.
It will not pass through the existing car deck.

I actually don't care about the sub and it likely won't be in my car too often.
I'm installing it because I own it and it was only an extra 50 dollars for the 5 channel amp vs a 4 channel amp.

The speakers will be connected to both the existing deck and the windows tablet. 4 switches will be installed to switch between the 2 sources.
This is to make it wife proof and keep the option of listening to the radio.

I expect this install to be terribly complicated and annoying.
I would be quite happy to get it professionally done but I would need to drive 2000 km (1200 miles) for it to happen.

Problems I expect:
- Electrical noise while charging tablet.
- Unnecessarily complicated door panel removal
- Lack of space for wires, amp, etc.
- Issues adjusting input sensitivity on amp

I'm still waiting on some more pieces to arrive.
I will post more detailed info/specs about the equipment I'm using once it's all here.

The existing stereo sounds terrible and when buying the car I had the option of upgrading to a Sony stereo for 1800 dollars.
The Sony stereo sounds terrible too (for the price). This install will cost far less than 1800 and will sound far better than the Sony.

[Matt]

I'm glad to see you have a manual transmission.  Long live the manual

[syndromeofadown]

Long live the manual

I agree. It was a pain to get. I had to custom order it and wait five months for it to arrive.
Apparently I'm one of the few in Western Canada that doesn't want an automatic.

[astromo]

Problems I expect:
- Electrical noise while charging tablet.

Maybe something like this:
mini-box DCDC-USB-200, Intelligent DC-DC converter with USB interface
or this:
CNX-P1290 Dual Output 90 Watt Intelligent DC-DC Power Regulator
would address the issues.

I like the look of these because they're not just regulated supplies, they're purpose built to deal with the vagaries of the voltage fluctuations associated with  car ignition and car battery charging.

[syndromeofadown]

Thanks astromo. I will look further into your recommendations when/if I get electrical noise.
I have seen solutions on the analog end of things which always seamed weird so it nice to see options that take care of noise before the DAC gets involved.

My current plan is to use a +port power adapter
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1094775787/port-power-usb-at-the-same-time
It will connect to the USB in my car for power only.
I have slight optimism that it will be a clean connection otherwise Ford would have thousands of complaints about noisy iPods.
Maybe wishfull thinking but we will see.

Will be a while yet before it's all hooked up. I have the front speakers in but that's it.

[astromo]

Thanks astromo. I will look further into your recommendations when/if I get electrical noise.

I think there are 2 issues:
1. "Clean power" - low ripple during "steady state operation" giving good audio quality.
2. Voltage swings during ignition and other transients and their short term effects on data storage (i.e. fritzing your memory) along with the long term effects on your PC's service life.

These "intelligent" regulators monitor the power quality and have the ability to quarantine your equipment until stable power is achieved. I'd say it's a question of the appetite for risk. If you're happy to take a punt with a less sophisticated regulator then fine. I don't have the experience to know whether the risk is big or small.

EDIT: Voices of experience here:
http://www.mp3car.com/power-supplies/156345-tablet-why-use-dc-to-dc-psu.html
You might want to wander around that forum and pick up further tips.

[syndromeofadown]

Thanks for the info, it's very useful.

I'd say it's a question of the appetite for risk

I suppose I'm feeling risky. I have my Dell tablet to thank for that.

Right now my main concern is just finding time to install speakers and wiring it all up.

Even if there is noise, a simple solution is just to run off the tablet battery until charging is sorted out.
I typically don't drive more than couple at a time so I can live without charging capabilities for the time being.

[syndromeofadown]

It took just a little longer than planned but I have JRiver in my car now.

I have had my JL Audio speakers in my doors since 2014 but they were just connected to the stock deck. The stock deck recently stopped working so I am back on the planned installation. I have everything in, tested, and working. I just need to tidy up some wiring and configure MC.



The only difference from my original plan is that I added a 300 Watt pure sine inverter to power my tablet.

I will be using an 8 inch Windows but tested with a surface. The sound is amazing and I couldn't be happier with it. I have never used parametric equalizer before but figured it out. I'll post setting in case someone can suggest a better way. Basically I set MC to output left and right channels through the DAC's side channel output, and copied the sub to the center channel so both of the amp's sub inputs are used.

[JimH]

Congratulations!  And thanks for posting the details.  I'm jealous.

[syndromeofadown]

Problems I expect:
- Electrical noise while charging tablet.

Everything is installed, wires are cleaned up, MC is configured. All is good until I start charging my tablet and I get a hum in the speakers. This is to be expected. I have ordered a gizmo to cleanup the power to the DAC, or remove it from the ground loop if needed. I will post details when installed.

There is hardware that can be installed to clean up the audio and remove the noise. I have no interest in these as they alter the sound and only act to mask the symptom as apposed to removing the source of the noise.

In the interim I am fine to run off the battery power of the tablet, which has zero noise and sounds great.

[BryanC]

One option that worked for me is to put in an external battery pack that supports pass-thru charging. It cleaned up the ground loop and as a bonus you also get additional battery life for about the same price as the other gizmos.

[syndromeofadown]

One option that worked for me is to put in an external battery pack that supports pass-thru charging. It cleaned up the ground loop and as a bonus you also get additional battery life for about the same price as the other gizmos.

This would be my last resort, I even have the battery pack picked out already. My goal is to have everything run off the car's power and the inverter so that the only thing needed is a tablet that simply needs plugged in. It looks like my goal is achieved as the doodad I bought has completely eliminated all noise in the speakers caused by ground loops. It is dead silent (aside from the music playing) at all times, including when the computer is charging.

Here is the thing I bought:
https://ifi-audio.com/products/idefender3-0/




It plugs in between the computer and the DAC but allows for a separate power source to be added in for the DAC. The second power source comes from my car's 12V cigarette lighter/power port. So it will likely work if I run it straight off my battery too. It does not work if the second power source comes from a battery pack or the inverter. It also doesn't work with my tablet that only has no power input aside from the one micro USB port it also has to use to output to the DAC. I don't want to use my surface in the car, I would like something smaller. The Surface Go looks like a pretty good option but it's expensive. If anyone can recommend a quality affordable Windows tablet with dedicated power supply or a small (10 inch or less) laptop please do.

For now I am pretty happy that I have solved my problem of noisy PC based car audio.

My previous post of my DSP setting is pretty wrong. I have them all sorted out now and will post the working setting sometime soon.